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Naperville
Tuesday, August 16, 2022

Somm-o-logue — Biodynamic cider

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Wikimedia Commons Photo

Autumn is almost here. I have been eating homegrown tomatoes for nearly two months and am now ready for my two favorite pome fruits, apples and pears.

The majority of American apples and pears are grown in the Pacific Northwest. In France, they are grown most predominantly in Normandy.

Cider, a beverage fermented from apples and sometimes pears, is one of the best values and underrated beverages out there. I am quite fond of the ciders produced by Eric Bordelet in Normandy.

Inspired by the late Didier Dagueneau, a champion of biodynamic farming and the master of sauvignon blanc, Sommelier Eric Bordelet left his job at a Parisian Michelin 3-Star restaurant to pursue his family heritage of orchards and cider.

In the early 1990’s he began applying biodynamic practices (extreme organic farming) to about 15 hectares of apples and pears he farms. Some sections of the orchards have 40-50-year-old trees. There are about 20 different apple varieties and about 15 of pear all ranging from savory to sweet.

The fruit is allowed to cure or dehydrate for about 4-5 weeks before it is pressed. The result is some of the best and most complex cider I have ever tasted.

There are several different bottlings from dry to off-dry and the more expensive ones are made with the fruit from the older parts of the orchards. With apple, pear, caramel, hay, and honey-like notes, it is lower in alcohol and lightly effervescent. I could drink it all day with Brie cheese. It is available at Binny’s Beverage Depot and sold in 750ml bottles.

For good information on cider visit www.oldtimecider.com.

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Timothy Penick
Timothy Penickhttp://www.sommologue.blogspot.com
Timothy Penick is a classically trained sommelier and writes about food,drink and wine from Naperville, Ill.

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